Fez

Monday, 18 November, 2013

I love the Royal Mirage Hotel. It s a modern luxurious hotel, with bar,  restaurants and swimming pools. Pity that the weather is awful  The next morning we are supposed to visit the town and I hope for a bit of sunshine. This is not to be so we stand, in the rain, in front of the royal palace   (we are not allowed inside) and listen to the story of the town. Our guide introduces himself; he is a language student and has written a thesis comparing the Hebrew and Arabic languages.  He tells us that the old section of  Fez,  is the oldest city of the world.  Unlike Jericho, it   continued existing as a living city through the centuries. Looking at the  state of the buildings I can well believe that. What I cannot understand is how people manage to live here, and survive.  There is no running water, and cooking is done at the baker's.
We watch a baker at his trade; people bring their loaves to be cooked. There is a mosque though, and as the guide  tells us, as long as there is water, a place for prayer and food, people will survive, and prosper.
We follow him in the maze of narrow streets. This is fun; we never know where he will take us next, meet  overloaded donkeys, people at work, children bringing loaves to be baked, women carrying water, shopping.  We come a cross a sort of central place filled with shops. We are in full medieval town, with street separated by trades;  tailors,  brass and copper smiths, clothiers, carpenters as well as food sellers (with horrible carcasses of meat).
We get a closer look at the arts of mosaic and leather. Jennifer gives in to temptation and buys a very nice handbag.

baker at his trade

a very old city

means of transport

a real souk

paint fot leathers

We are taken for lunch to a place built over several stories of various sizes.  I can't imagine how it was planned, if planned it was.  We need assistance in finding the entrance, the exit, toilets.  Evidently the local idea  of planning is different from what we are used to. But we sit on cushions and the food (as long as it is only vegetables) is not too bad.

In the afternoon we visit the Al Karaouine  mosque, dating from the 9th century. Unlike the houses we have seen earlier it is in very good repair.  The roof, covered with emerald green tiles and the ablution basin in the center  make it look special. I look at it with some interest because it has been frequented by Averroes